Making it better (bigger)
Category UX280 UX280P Sony Vaio UX
No, this isn't a splog/blam post for some sexual enhancement of some sort, I made my UX better by upgrading it to an 80GB storage BEAST!
The UX comes standard with a 40GB hard drive, but Sony 'steals' 10GB for a recovery partition. Even if you don't feel comfortable opening the case, I would suggest that you immediately build the recovery disks and run the recovery process and set the option to not build the recovery partition (see steps #1,2, and 32), this will get you an additional 10GBs from the factory configuration.
JKOnTheRun had an article on upgrading a UX50 to 60GB so I figured if that author could do 60GB in a UX50, then I should try 80GB (the biggest 1.8" drive sold) in a UX280.
This is basically the same procedure with a couple of additions that are particular to the 280. One of the big questions I had was whether the 8mm 80GB drive would fit in the case since the stock 40GB drive is only 5mm...I am happy to say that it does
.
Dynamism offers a UX280P with an 80GB HDD (last computer listed on the pricing page), but have also heard that they have reported some overheating problems. Since the 8mm drive takes up more airflow space this might be something to watch closely.
Anyway, here is how to 'Make It Better/Bigger':
PLEASE NOTE: Performing this upgrade will probably invalidate your warranty and any reseller maintenance agreements! Though relatively straight forward, this is a very sensitive procedure that can cause irreversible damage to your UX if you do not exercise extreme care!
Proceed at your own risk and good luck!
This is a pre-upgrade screen capture of the BIOS configuration showing the 40GB drive,
Before you start: Purchase a Toshiba MK8009GAH 1.8-inch 80GB PMR HDD, I got mine from ComputerGiants for $199.
Step 1: Create the recovery DVDs
Step 2: Backup your machine.
Step 3: Establish and maintain a good ground throughout the remaining procedure. If you don't know how or why to do this, you probably shouldn't attempt to perform this upgrade.
Step 4: Open the case by removing six screws. The four outer corner screws are pretty self-explanatory.
The fifth screw is exposed by removing the battery.
The sixth screw is hidden under an access panel near the battery. Gently pry the panel up, then pull the panel away from the battery once it is slightly open...if you pry to hard, you will break the little 'ear' that holds the panel to the case...go carefully here. You will also have to remove the stylus if you haven't already.
Step 5: Once you have the six screws loosened, gently separate the case halves. There is a wire, I think it is the WWAN antenna lead, that is connected to the back case half but taped to the front case half, if you pull the case halves apart gently, the tape will pull up without damaging the lead...go gently here as well.
Step 6: What things should look like once you get the case separated.
Step 7: Remove the two anti-abrasion covers.
Step 8: Remove the ground continuance pads and the adhesive tape.
Step 9: Remove the hard drive bezel by unscrewing these six screws.
The screw holding the Intel Wireless daughter card is partially covered by a wire, you can rotate the wire's connector to the daughter card to move it out of the way.
Notice that the screw goes through the daughter card.
The drive bezel once it is removed.
Step 10: Disconnect the tape holding this plastic print ribbon.
Step 11: Lift the hard drive up slightly. The hard drive is mounted inside of two foam carriers, these are slightly tacky and can be gently nudged up. Do not pry too hard or attempt to pull the drive up too much or you might damage the drive connector.
Step 12: Disconnect the drive connector. The drive connector uses a Zero Insertion Force (ZIF) ATA-6 connector...it is extremely easy to damage if you man handle the printed circuit plastic ribbon cable too much.
With great care, use a small standard screw driver blade to 'unlock' the connector by pushing the small black bar on the edge connector away from the drive's body (this will move the bar 'up'.) DO NOT push the bar too hard or gouge the connector's leads in any way. Once the connector has been unlocked, gently slide the printed circuit plastic ribbon cable away from the drive, careful not to bend it too much. If it bends too much, the printed circuit will separate from the plastic and then crack and the machine will be useless! Disconnecting and reconnecting the printed circuit plastic ribbon cable are the most critical steps to get right!
Step 13: Gentle pull the foam carriers away from the drive. Don't pull too hard or the carriers might rip or deform.
Step 14: Compare the 40GB 5mm drive to the 80GB 8mm drive.
Step 15: Remove the anti-abrasion tape and grounding pad from the original drive.
Step 16: Reverse the process.
Step 17: Install the anti-abrasion tape and ground continuance pad on the new drive.
Step 18: Install the foam carriers around the new drive.
Step 19: Insert the printed circuit plastic ribbon cable. The drive should come with the ZIF connector unlocked, but you might want to check...this really is ZERO INSERTION FORCE!
Step 20: Lock the connector in place.
Step 21: Insert the drive and carriers into place. The fit will be a little tighter than previous due to the deformation of the foam when you separated it from the original drive. I used a small standard screwdriver blade to gently nudge the foam carriers into place. The drive should be touching the ground continuance pad at the leading end of the drive (closest to the connector.)
Step 22: Attach the drive bezel with seven screws. Be sure to reroute the lead going to the Intel Wireless daughter card correctly and secure the daughter card with the odd sized small screw.
Step 23: Reattach the two pieces of tape.
Step 24: Reattach the large ground continuance pad.
Step 25: Reattach the two anti-abrasion covers.
Step 26: Reconnect the case halves...you can attempt to reapply the tape holding the antenna lead, but I wasn't to successful.
Step 27: Screw in the four black corner screws, the small battery area screw and the long silver screw under the access panel.
Step 28: Reattach the access panel.
Step 29: Reconnect the battery
Step 30: Boot to the BIOS configuration and goto the second page and see if the drive shows up...if it doesn't you probably didn't get the ZIF connector seated properly or you cracked the printed circuit (hope that it is the former and not the later.)
Step 31: Run the recovery process by booting the first DVD in the set and following the instructions.
Step 32: Select to NOT create the recovery partition...since you have already created the recovery DVDs, you will not need the partition (be sure to keep your DVDs in good shape and stored where you can find them.) A portion of the recovery occurs after a reboot and launch of Windows XP (the default applications are installed), do not be alarmed.
Step 33: Restore from your backup.
Step 34: Enjoy having more room to work/play.
Update
Step 35: Order a 1.8 inch USB 2.0 drive enclosure from Sewell and put your spare 40GB drive to good use
No, this isn't a splog/blam post for some sexual enhancement of some sort, I made my UX better by upgrading it to an 80GB storage BEAST!
The UX comes standard with a 40GB hard drive, but Sony 'steals' 10GB for a recovery partition. Even if you don't feel comfortable opening the case, I would suggest that you immediately build the recovery disks and run the recovery process and set the option to not build the recovery partition (see steps #1,2, and 32), this will get you an additional 10GBs from the factory configuration.
JKOnTheRun had an article on upgrading a UX50 to 60GB so I figured if that author could do 60GB in a UX50, then I should try 80GB (the biggest 1.8" drive sold) in a UX280.
This is basically the same procedure with a couple of additions that are particular to the 280. One of the big questions I had was whether the 8mm 80GB drive would fit in the case since the stock 40GB drive is only 5mm...I am happy to say that it does
.
Dynamism offers a UX280P with an 80GB HDD (last computer listed on the pricing page), but have also heard that they have reported some overheating problems. Since the 8mm drive takes up more airflow space this might be something to watch closely.
Anyway, here is how to 'Make It Better/Bigger':
PLEASE NOTE: Performing this upgrade will probably invalidate your warranty and any reseller maintenance agreements! Though relatively straight forward, this is a very sensitive procedure that can cause irreversible damage to your UX if you do not exercise extreme care!
Proceed at your own risk and good luck!
This is a pre-upgrade screen capture of the BIOS configuration showing the 40GB drive,
Before you start: Purchase a Toshiba MK8009GAH 1.8-inch 80GB PMR HDD, I got mine from ComputerGiants for $199.
Step 1: Create the recovery DVDs
Step 2: Backup your machine.
Step 3: Establish and maintain a good ground throughout the remaining procedure. If you don't know how or why to do this, you probably shouldn't attempt to perform this upgrade.
Step 4: Open the case by removing six screws. The four outer corner screws are pretty self-explanatory.
The fifth screw is exposed by removing the battery.
The sixth screw is hidden under an access panel near the battery. Gently pry the panel up, then pull the panel away from the battery once it is slightly open...if you pry to hard, you will break the little 'ear' that holds the panel to the case...go carefully here. You will also have to remove the stylus if you haven't already.
Step 5: Once you have the six screws loosened, gently separate the case halves. There is a wire, I think it is the WWAN antenna lead, that is connected to the back case half but taped to the front case half, if you pull the case halves apart gently, the tape will pull up without damaging the lead...go gently here as well.
Step 6: What things should look like once you get the case separated.
Step 7: Remove the two anti-abrasion covers.
Step 8: Remove the ground continuance pads and the adhesive tape.
Step 9: Remove the hard drive bezel by unscrewing these six screws.
The screw holding the Intel Wireless daughter card is partially covered by a wire, you can rotate the wire's connector to the daughter card to move it out of the way.
Notice that the screw goes through the daughter card.
The drive bezel once it is removed.
Step 10: Disconnect the tape holding this plastic print ribbon.
Step 11: Lift the hard drive up slightly. The hard drive is mounted inside of two foam carriers, these are slightly tacky and can be gently nudged up. Do not pry too hard or attempt to pull the drive up too much or you might damage the drive connector.
Step 12: Disconnect the drive connector. The drive connector uses a Zero Insertion Force (ZIF) ATA-6 connector...it is extremely easy to damage if you man handle the printed circuit plastic ribbon cable too much.
With great care, use a small standard screw driver blade to 'unlock' the connector by pushing the small black bar on the edge connector away from the drive's body (this will move the bar 'up'.) DO NOT push the bar too hard or gouge the connector's leads in any way. Once the connector has been unlocked, gently slide the printed circuit plastic ribbon cable away from the drive, careful not to bend it too much. If it bends too much, the printed circuit will separate from the plastic and then crack and the machine will be useless! Disconnecting and reconnecting the printed circuit plastic ribbon cable are the most critical steps to get right!
Step 13: Gentle pull the foam carriers away from the drive. Don't pull too hard or the carriers might rip or deform.
Step 14: Compare the 40GB 5mm drive to the 80GB 8mm drive.
Step 15: Remove the anti-abrasion tape and grounding pad from the original drive.
Step 16: Reverse the process.
Step 17: Install the anti-abrasion tape and ground continuance pad on the new drive.
Step 18: Install the foam carriers around the new drive.
Step 19: Insert the printed circuit plastic ribbon cable. The drive should come with the ZIF connector unlocked, but you might want to check...this really is ZERO INSERTION FORCE!
Step 20: Lock the connector in place.
Step 21: Insert the drive and carriers into place. The fit will be a little tighter than previous due to the deformation of the foam when you separated it from the original drive. I used a small standard screwdriver blade to gently nudge the foam carriers into place. The drive should be touching the ground continuance pad at the leading end of the drive (closest to the connector.)
Step 22: Attach the drive bezel with seven screws. Be sure to reroute the lead going to the Intel Wireless daughter card correctly and secure the daughter card with the odd sized small screw.
Step 23: Reattach the two pieces of tape.
Step 24: Reattach the large ground continuance pad.
Step 25: Reattach the two anti-abrasion covers.
Step 26: Reconnect the case halves...you can attempt to reapply the tape holding the antenna lead, but I wasn't to successful.
Step 27: Screw in the four black corner screws, the small battery area screw and the long silver screw under the access panel.
Step 28: Reattach the access panel.
Step 29: Reconnect the battery
Step 30: Boot to the BIOS configuration and goto the second page and see if the drive shows up...if it doesn't you probably didn't get the ZIF connector seated properly or you cracked the printed circuit (hope that it is the former and not the later.)
Step 31: Run the recovery process by booting the first DVD in the set and following the instructions.
Step 32: Select to NOT create the recovery partition...since you have already created the recovery DVDs, you will not need the partition (be sure to keep your DVDs in good shape and stored where you can find them.) A portion of the recovery occurs after a reboot and launch of Windows XP (the default applications are installed), do not be alarmed.
Step 33: Restore from your backup.
Step 34: Enjoy having more room to work/play.
Update
Step 35: Order a 1.8 inch USB 2.0 drive enclosure from Sewell and put your spare 40GB drive to good use
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Comments
Posted by Broken at 03:39:09 PM on 11/29/2006 | - Website - |
Personally, I wouldn't put my integrity in play for a couple of thousand, if I broke it, I would fess up and pay to get it fixed...certainly Sony has a record of your name, etc, from the return process?
Posted by andy broyles at 04:48:08 PM on 11/29/2006 | - Website - |
Posted by J.A. Acosta at 05:19:52 PM on 11/29/2006 | - Website - |
Instead to replace the Vaio's HDD (a tricky task on wich your very lovely VAIO could Die)...
Just put the new 1.8"HDD on a tiny usb enclosure and attach it to the vaio's back using adhesive velcro's... this way you'll have more space and your Vaio's Working Fine, and no Fears on Warranty Issues...
Posted by JOE at 05:27:14 PM on 11/29/2006 | - Website - |
I had considered uing an external drive (and actually do carry one with me - my old 40GB from the UX) but decided that the slight power drain from moving up to the 80GB drive versus the larger power drain from an external drive was worth the effort.
Posted by Andy Broyles at 09:09:37 AM on 11/30/2006 | - Website - |
Posted by Dave at 02:24:21 PM on 12/24/2006 | - Website - |
Unless you are a very patient person with the ability to keep your cool under incredibly frustrating conditions, do not do this. I wish I could have seen this article before I went thru this hell myself.
Posted by Richard Reyes at 11:10:48 PM on 01/31/2007 | - Website - |
Posted by GERALD ROMERO at 11:43:19 AM on 02/02/2007 | - Website - |
Posted by Dale Chao at 11:08:35 AM on 02/12/2007 | - Website - |
As far as the battery, I get about 2.5 hours on display brightness setting #6 (of 9) with the regular battery and a little over 5 hours with the extended battery.
When I did the upgrade initially, I bought two HDDs becuase I was concerned about over heating and needing to replace the drive at some point in the future...just recently I installed the second drie and did a Vista upgrade...and promptly removed the drive and Vista...yuck!
Posted by Andy Broyles at 03:58:34 PM on 02/12/2007 | - Website - |
Posted by Patrick C Carroll at 03:12:11 PM on 02/25/2007 | - Website - |
I used a good amount of down force while applying constant turning pressure on the screwheads...just remember, righty tighty, lefty loosey
Posted by Andy Broyles at 08:06:46 AM on 02/26/2007 | - Website - |
Posted by Patrick C Carroll at 02:41:17 AM on 02/27/2007 | - Website - |
thanks!
Posted by george at 02:39:05 AM on 05/18/2007 | - Website - |
i need to reset the Bios battery in my ux180p
whenere can i find it in the picture
are they the two batteries in the motherboards or not
and if there is a way to reset the bios setup password without opening the laptop
Posted by zayed at 10:56:05 AM on 05/25/2007 | - Website - |
I have a UX180 with 512M of memory. It seems like you can buy a 1G memory stick for the machine. Has anybody upgraded the memory? Are there any issues to be aware of?
Posted by Soren Tirfing at 02:24:58 PM on 05/29/2007 | - Website - |
can you tell me where can i find the bios chip or bios battery please
Posted by zayed at 11:01:17 AM on 06/01/2007 | - Website - |
THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!!
Posted by Rambloid at 01:10:37 AM on 07/06/2007 | - Website - |
Posted by Stefan at 12:00:00 PM on 07/18/2007 | - Website - |
Mine got broken
I got it taken apart down to removing the main body inside but still can't get at the LCD. There is a cover that I think holds in the keyboard that probably needs removed. Any suggestions?
Posted by Anita at 08:20:48 PM on 09/17/2007 | - Website - |
I have a 380 with 1gb and It could really use more.
Thanks
Posted by cm1 at 11:33:00 AM on 12/24/2007 | - Website - |
Posted by Jason Bowen at 06:34:40 PM on 01/21/2008 | - Website - |
Posted by jay at 11:41:52 AM on 03/11/2008 | - Website - |
Posted by maddarren at 09:51:25 AM on 03/22/2008 | - Website - |